• Destination: Nepal

About Ama Dablam Expedition in Autumn

Ama Dablam is among one of the most stunning mountains in the world with its exquisite scenery and landscape! The mountain offers you more than you sign up for! Ama Dablam’s expedition in autumn is an adventurous journey that will make sure to live beyond your expectations. Mount Ama Dablam is lodged 152 kilometres northeast of Kathmandu in the eastern Himalayan Range. Adjacent to the peak, there's a smaller peak located nearby (6,170/20,243 feet). Typically, three camps are established along the southwest ridge, with camp three located beneath the hanging glacier (the Dablam). Its peculiar shape appeals to climbers.

It takes technical skill to reach the top of the Ama Dablam peak. It offers every impossible task one could imagine; ice, rock, scrambling, beautiful vistas, and excellent approaches. Ama Dablam's base camp is superbly placed in a meadow with a stream. To partake in this Ama Dablam expedition, all climbers must be technically proficient and have excellent rock and ice climbing skills.

The name Ama Dablam means "Mother's Jewel" in English. Its name comes from the locals' perception that a glacier on its southwest side resembles "Dablam," a traditional Sherpa diamond, and "Ama," which means mother. The top of Ama Dablam has a remarkable allure. Each year, Ama Dablam attracts hundreds of climbers because of its beauty and challenges. Every climber strives to get to the top of Ama Dablam. If you have any prior experience and wish to be a part of a well-led expedition, Ama Dablam is your best option.

Since its ascent, this 6812-meter-high mountain has grown in popularity with adventure enthusiasts as hundreds of climbers journey to its base to reach the peak of this stunning mountain. You can get a breathtaking 360-degree view of the surrounding mountains from the summit of Mount Ama Dablam, including the highest mountain in the world, Mount Everest (8848.86 m), the third-highest mountain, Mount Kanchenjunga (8586 m), the fourth-highest mountain, Mount Lhotse (8516 m), the fifth-highest mountain, Mount Makalu (8463 m), Thamserku, Khantega, and many other mountains.

This autumn, journey to Ama Dablam with Outfitter Nepal for a thrilling adventure! We are taking reservations for our Ama Dablam Expedition in 2023 and 2024. Our skilled and qualified Sherpas will lead you to the summit of the rigorous Mount Ama Dablam as part of our Autumn Expedition! Your safety is our top priority, and bearing that in our mind, we have carefully designed the autumn itinerary.

History of the Ama Dablam Expedition

Mike Gill (New Zealand), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK), and Wally Romanes (New Zealand) took the Southwest Ridge to summit Ama Dablam for the first time on March 13, 1961. They had spent the winter at 5800 meters close to the peak's base as a member of the Sir Edmund Hillary-led Silver Hut expedition in 1960–1961, so they were used to high altitudes and had acclimated well.

Ama Dablam Climbing Route

The Southwest Ridge of Mount Ama Dablam is the traditional and most used climbing route. Ama Dablam, a 6812-meter-tall snow-capped peak in the Everest region, is one of the trickiest and most challenging mountains to climb. The path to its peak is lined with challenging ice rocks and steep snow. Mountaineers typically have to set up a three-story camp before ascending.

The toughest route, with saddle ridges, leads to Camp I. Then, turning to the north, we should ascend through the boulder and the stony ground. We arrive at Camp I at last. From here, one must traverse a rocky bowl and ascend a ridge using fixed lines to Camp II.

From Camp II, the route is steep mixed alleyways of rock, ice, and snow that lead to the steep climb and lead to snow ground that passes through steep snow and ice tunnel and finally proceeds along the snow ridge to Camps III. From here to the summit, the ascent is an arduous climb on snow and ice to the right of a huge hanging glacier. From the summit of Mount Ama Dablam, we can glimpse the Khumbu Himalayan, Makalu 8463m, Island Peak, Lhotse 8516m, Mount Everest 8848m, and other snow-covered mountains.

Autumn Season for Ama Dablam Expedition (September, October and November)

Autumn is the best time to appreciate Ama Dablam's splendor as it is the ideal transitional season between the extreme heat of summer and the wind chill of winter. Autumnal months in Nepal are the months of September, October and November. The temperature is warm but not oppressively so at this time of year. Early autumn weather is mild, with highs of 15 degrees Celsius.

Travelers can catch glimpses of a variety of animals and birds in the forests when the weather cools. It is also wonderful to capture the stunning views of glacier valleys and river terraces during the autumn Ama Dablam expedition. You will witness many of Khumbu's faces and colors during the mountain ascent, draped in the festive season. The local cultures, traditions, values, and identities of people from various ethnic backgrounds will give you a new perspective on the life of Nepal's Himalayas.

Ama Dablam Expedition in September

September represents the beginning of autumn. It signals calmer, cosier weather with a positive attitude that encourages climbers. The temperature increases quickly at the beginning of the month making the weather warm. At lower elevations, summer weather predominates, resulting in more rain. The mountain's weather becomes unstable due to the rising temperature, frequently causing avalanches.

Due to the more consistent weather in late September, most hikers prefer this time. Since the temperature drops below -20 degrees Celsius at the summit, the climate is already chilly during September.

At the peak, mountaineers could encounter strong winds and storms. It might bring a lot of strong gusts and low clouds, which could disrupt the excursion. Although, mountain climbing is still enjoyable in warm weather and ample sunlight.

Ama Dablam Expedition in October

Since the weather is lovely with a mix of warm and cool days, October is arguably the most beautiful month to summit Ama Dablam. With ample time to reach the peak and explore the mountains, it is more hospitable and gracious to climbers.

In October, the weather is generally predictable. Particularly in the lower sections, the first few weeks are a little warm and pleasant. However, the temperature tends to drop rapidly when you ascend to a high altitude. The temperature can go as low as -15 degrees Celsius at the top of the summit, so packing warm clothes is also a must!

Additionally, it enables climbers to have a thorough understanding of the diverse cultures, religious heritage, and customs observed during the month. In October, Khumbu residents celebrate important Hindu festivities such as Dashain and Tihar. Mountaineers, therefore, have a perfect opportunity to learn about the many ethnic cultures and values during the Ama Dablam expedition in the autumn.

Ama Dablam Expedition in November

As autumn comes to an end in November, it marks the beginning of winter. Mountaineers can enjoy cool weather with an average temperature range between -10 and -15 degrees Celsius. Typically, Ama Dablam is chilly at this time of year.

In late November, the mountain is rampant in dust from fresh snow. Parts of Khumbu will face extremely chilly temperatures as it comes closer to winter. However, the days are still pleasant enough to explore and take advantage of outdoor activities.

From November onward, the days start to grow shorter, so you'll need to climb more quickly. The month also brings fewer sunshine hours thus, it can get chilly fast.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Spring is another possible timeframe for the Ama Dablam Expedition. March, April, and May are considered the spring months. Spring is a preferable time to summit because of the environment and weather. You should do your part of the study, though.

The monsoon season lasts from June through August, and winter lasts from December through February. The monsoon and winter are the two worst times of year for the Ama Dablam Expedition. These seasons, as opposed to autumn, feature extremely arduous and unpredictable weather. Thus, autumn is a better time to start your Ama Dablam Expedition.

Ama Dablam Expedition with Outfitter Nepal

Experience the thrill of climbing the technical Ama Dablam with Outfitter Nepal. We employ the best Sherpa guides, who are born and raised in the Everest Region. Similarly, their knowledge and decades of experience will make your expedition worth striving for. At Outfitter Nepal, we have curated the Ama Dablam itinerary through strategic intervention and enough acclimatization days, so that your journey feels more like an exciting adventure rather than an arduous climb. We consider your safety and gratification our utmost priorities. Thus, we make sure to meet all your expedition needs. Book your autumn Ama Dablam expedition with us and experience the best memory you can aspire to reach!

USEFUL INFORMATION

Difficulty during Ama Dablam Expedition

In contrast to other summits, the Ama Dablam Expedition is a physically demanding and technically challenging trek. There are numerous brief, steep sections of the trail along with virtually vertical ice and rock on the stunning ridge that runs between Camp I and Camp III. It's easy to ascend High Camp I. However, the route from High Camp II is mostly composed of sloping rocks, snow, ice glaciers, etc. This could be difficult for the climbers, but not impossible. To reach the peak, one must make a difficult, protracted trip through a glacier of snow and ice that requires both strength and ability.

There is a chance of getting altitude sickness when journeying across the Himalayas. Avalanches and falls are other unpredictable situations climbers must contend with in the Everest region.

Safety during Ama Dablam Expedition

There are occasions when the climbing stage is physically demanding and severe. An obvious consideration is already there because of Mount Ama Dablam's elevation. Also referred to as the acclimatization phase, it is the most crucial phase that comes after reaching the top of the summit. Because of the mountain's challenging geography, mountaineers find it more demanding to ascend Ama Dablam.

These are some of the explanations for why climbing Ama Dablam is dangerous. The mountain is incredibly dangerous due to its hazardous terrain, technical challenges, problems with accessibility, unpredictable climate, and avalanches. Before attempting the ascent of this most perilous peak, every climber should be well-prepared and in top physical condition.

Alternative Routes to Climbing Ama Dablam

North Ridge: North ridge climb was first attempted in October 1979 as a substitute for the southwest ridge. It is not advisable to take this course, despite the breathtaking views you can afford via this route. This is due to the potential of avalanches and the fact that the snow on the east face is frequently very unstable.

East Ridge: East Ridge is one of the trickiest routes to Ama Dablam. It is commonly known as Lagunak Ridge among the locals. Mountaineers first ascended the summit via East Ride in 1983.

Lowe Route: Lowe route is lodged on the southern face of Mount Ama Dablam. This route was the second to be successfully ascended after the Southwest Ridge Route in April 1979.

What's Included

Before Trekking and Expedition

  • Airport transfer by private car/van/bus in accordance with the itinerary.
  • Guided sightseeing tour around Kathmandu valley by private car/van/bus.
  • Entrance fees and tickets during a guided sightseeing tour in Kathmandu valley.
  • 2 Nights’ Accommodation at a Michelin star luxury hotel in Kathmandu with Bed and Breakfast.

During Trekking and Expedition

  • Paper works, national park entry permit, Khumbu rural municipality entry permit, Peak permit fee, and expedition royalty fees.
  • Lukla Flight Fees
  • Route fixing (SPCC and EOA) fees.
  • Liaison officer fees.
  • Wages for porter, guides and climbing guides.
  • Ama Dablam Region Map
  • Accommodation during lodge trekking in lodges or tea houses.
  • Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner in accordance with the package during the lodge trekking.
  • 2 Expedition duffel bags per climber.
  • Tented Accommodation in Camps (Twin sharing Basis).
  • Provision of kitchen tent, store tent, dining tent, and toilet tent.
  • Walkie-talkies for each member base unit at base camps.
  • Sleeping Tent and mattress for each member.
  • Provision of kitchen and dining equipment as well as eating utensils.
  • Provision of meals (Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner) during camping.
  • Food supply and expedition equipment logistics transportation to and from the base camp.
  • Travel insurance to all Nepalese staff.
  • Cook and kitchen boy at the camps.
  • Gamow bag (Portable Altitude Chamber).
  • Collective climbing equipment such as climbing rope, ice screws, snow bars, and a snow shovel.
  • Heaters in the mess tents at base camps.
  • Satellite phone provision, costs apply per usage.
  • Emergency Helicopter Service arrangement in accordance with the Travel Insurance.
  • Government Taxes

After Trekking and Expedition

  • Airport transfer by private car/van/bus in accordance with the itinerary.
  • 2 Nights’ Accommodation at a Michelin star luxury hotel in Kathmandu with Bed and Breakfast.
  • Farewell dinner.
  • Visa for Nepal (You may easily acquire a visa on arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu; carry 2 Passport Size photos on hand).
  • Lunch and Dinner at Kathmandu
  • Bar bills and laundry service.
  • Mandatory Travel Insurance.
  • Medical and Emergency Insurance.
  • Rescue, medical and hospitalization expenses.
  • Personal Climbing Equipment.
  • Extra Oxygen Mask and Regulator (can be provided on request).
  • Alcoholic drinks and beverages.
  • Personal climbing gear, equipment, and apparel such as ice ax, crampons, climbing boots, jumar, harness, slings, karabiners, descender, and prussic loops.
  • Personal snack items such as chocolates, granola bars, and beef jerky.
  • International airfare and tax.
  • Garbage deposit fee.
  • Emergency first aid kit.
  • Climbing Sherpa.
  • Generator or solar panel for light and charging at the base camp.
  • Gratuity fee (tips) for the staff.
  • Summit Bonus.
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition equipment.
  • Expenses not mentioned in the including section.